Bio-architecture . Delicate versus rough. High tech meets traditional. Natural sand colours mixed with dazzling sunset pink. The expressions of the Dagmar S/S 2013 collection are all about dynamic contradictions. It is greatly inspired by the new bio-architecture, where high tech homes are built in ancient-style carved caves and other sites that reference humankind’s earliest history. The style comes from an inner longing to go back to nature, but without compromising on modern facilities or constant connection to the rest of the world.
In the collection, this is visualized through an expressive fusion, where the natural and bohemian look is as significant as the technical. The silhouette is comfortable and loose. It has an organic shape; the outline of the rounded shoulders, hems and cuts resemble that of softly rounded leaves or rolling mountains. As a contrast, details such as plastic zippers or technical fabrics such as neoprene or leather, give a hyper modern and sculptured expression to the garment.
Assymetric cuts create windows that appear and disappear when the garment is worn. A jacquard program with a cubistic pattern further symbolizes architectural windows. On the other hand, a drapey program with a print inspired by the horizon in sunset gives a bohemian and dazzling touch. The pattern of this print is also found elsewhere in the collection - in the form of knitted intarsia.
Kiki Georgiou writes at rodeo.net
The three lovely Dagmar sisters have taken London by storm and it’s easy to see why. Their collections epitomise the essence of ‘Scandi cool’ (Parisian labels are so last season) but without any compromise in fit and quality. If you’re just a regular shopper browsing through a Dagmar rail at a store you’ll have to take a closer look at their knitwear, you’ll want to feel it and you’ll very likely want to try something on. And now, with Net-a-Porter as a new stockist the world is their oyster!
Their S/S’13 collection felt light and fresh and very summery. It opened with a video of leaves fluttering in the breeze and a long light green dress, with slits to the sides – the kind of dress you’ll want to wear on a warm summer’s evening, just after you’ve washed the sand off your hair and right before the first cocktail of the night. The print, in both a zesty bright combo of yellow, pink and blue and a more earthy stone, sand and white referenced the sisters’ interest in bio architecture; high tech homes carved as pre-historic caves. The best of both worlds, then and now, a mountain side sliced through to reveal hidden layers of earth and stone. But, of course, you don’t need to know all that because it also looked like a big cone of ice-cream flavours melting onto each other and that sounds just tasty.
So, the light pieces felt great for packing into a suitcase and jetting of to Ibiza (think neon accents and cricket bikinis) but the rest felt right for a summer in the city. Sporty shapes like zip-up bomber jackets were teamed with knee-length skirts, jacquard knit dresses and gorgeous thick asymmetric jumpers were worn on top of chic jogger trousers. You could just see someone knitting that with big long needles and a lot of love. There was also a play with non-natural fabrics like neoprene and it looked good but the sisters are always best when they take natural materials, like cotton and leather and linen, and they turn them into something cool but easy, so right for now and classic. They’re like chefs, if you like, not fussing about transforming their basket of fresh produce into something unrecognisable. The Dagmar S/S’13 collection as a plate of food? A fresh summery salad with bright juicy berries the girls picked themselves. Like I said, tasty!